As a certified bicycle technician, I often find that many of the repairs encountered in any shop is one of making derailer adjustments. It doesn’t matter whether it’s the front or rear derailer, the outcome is still the same. You see, the problem is that when a cyclist finishes their ride, they do not think of shifting down to the smallest cog and chainring. The result of this inaction is that it will eventually lead to their derailers coming out of adjustment as most modern-day bicycles use an index shift system.
Let me explain in detail…on a mechanical derailer system (cable actuated), when you leave your bike in gear other than the smallest cog (example 1st vs 10th) you will leave that shift cable at the highest tension. That high tension will stretch your shift cable which in turn will cause your index shifting to be affected. Makes sense, doesn’t it? In addition, all derailer systems have a coiled spring which is a torsion/ tension design. Their sole purpose of that spring is to return the derailer back to its lowest point.
When you leave your derailer set in first gear or the highest chainring, you place a lot of added tension to both the cable and torsion/tension spring. This in turn over time will degrade the performance of the shift system. Now let’s talk about Di2 or Electronic shifting…even though you have the efficiency of a wireless system, you still have a built-in torsion/tension spring installed on your derailer. I think by now you get the picture…so if you want to save yourself some grief and money, simply before you end your ride and hang your bike up for the next session, shift down to the smallest cog and chainring to preserve you derailer system.
P.S. Bike shops will probably hate me for posting this article but its not about them, it’s about you which matters most.
El Paso Bicycle Club 